Hand Torn Pasta with a Fiery Tomato Tapenade
HOME–On a recent blustery afternoon, we made reservations for the evening at a new Italian restaurant. In my mind’s eye, I conjured up a plate of thick, al dente, hand torn pasta. This is what I would order: chewy squares of semolina pasta drizzled in olive oil and sprinkled with fried capers or lemon peel or flakes of red peppers.
Checking out the restaurant’s site, I acquiesced my pasta dream dish wasn’t on the menu, but surely it would be a Nightly Special. Surely. Surely, steaming, thick squares of hand torn pasta is on everyone’s mind (including any Italian chef worth his sale) during these frigid months.
Or surely not, Crazy Lady.
Undeterred, I continued to envision the rustic torn pasta. I’d first fallen in love with this type of pasta on our trip to the Amalfi Coast a couple of years ago. So, last night, like any sorceress worth her salt, I conjured it up myself.
We’ve actually been making a similar sauce for weeks. In fact, while I was knee deep in fatigue, Rich commandeered the kitchen and the shopping. {gasp!} After six years of dating and six more of marriage, letting Rich take control of my domain was a sure sign something was amiss. Not that he can’t cook. He’s actually a very good cook. He’s the guy who follows a recipe precisely and turns out perfect plate after perfect plate. If you know Rich, you know that he is the Rule Follower in this family. I am the refrigerator scrounging, five pots for a one-pot meal, interpretive, expressionistic, flour-in-my-hair, who-needs-a-measuring-cup, wonder-what-a-pinch-of-this-will-do, black sheep member.
My biggest request was for his fresh Sea Bass with Tomato, Olives, and Capers by Ellie Krieger. Her hearty tomato sauce almost overwhelms the fish. And being the reluctant fish eater that I am, I am cool with that. As expected, I’ve altered Ellie’s recipe and created my very own fiery tomato tapenade sauce. And although I assure you this dish doesn’t need a protein, it would go brilliantly with chicken, veal, pork, beef, or obviously, sea bass.
Hand Torn Pasta with a Fiery Tomato Tapenade
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Dough
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3/4 cups of Semolina Flour
3/4 cups of Unbleached White Flour mixed with 1/2 t Kosher Salt
2 Eggs, beaten
2 T Water
2 T Olive Oil (optionally substitute Chili Oil)
2 T chopped Parsley (for topping only!)
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Knead the dough for 10 minutes until it’s pliable and smooth. If you have a stand up mixer with a dough hook, knead on medium speed for ten minutes. Large humming appliances tend to make the dough much smoother and our lives much easier, but honestly, the cooked result will not be noticeably different. And personally, I think kneading dough is one of life’s greatest pleasures. The semolina is a textured flour. Be sure the texture has been smoothed when the heel of your hand flattens it.
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Next, rest the dough beneath a dish towel for 20 minutes while you make your sauce and heat your pasta water. When ready, roll the dough into a large, pizza-sized round. The dough will thicken as it cooks, so roll it out thinner than you want it to cook up. If you use a pasta roller with six depth notches, pass it through until you reach three or four. I prefer my dough a bit thick for this recipe.
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Tear the round into approximately 2 x 2 squares or 2 x 3 rectangles. Don’t worry about being uniform. Cook squares in salted, oiled and boiling water until al dente. Cool and top with parsley and additional olive oil.
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Tomato Tapenade Sauce
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2 T Olive Oil (optionally substitute Chili Oil)
1 small Yellow Onion, diced
2 cloves of Garlic (optional)
1/2 cup Chardonnay
28 oz. can of Tomatoes (e.g. Muir Glen Fire Roasted Crushed Tomatoes)
1/2 cup pitted, Spicy Green and Black Olives
2 T Capers, drained
2 Anchovies, minced (optional)
1/4 t Red Pepper Flakes
Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Pepper to taste
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In a large skillet, heat the olive oil and saute the yellow onion until tender. Add the garlic and saute another minute. Add the wine and cook until it’s reduced by half. Add remaining ingredients and cook for fifteen or so minutes. Season with Kosher Salt and Pepper.
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A handful of Pine Nuts, lightly toasted
Parmesan for shaving (e.g. Parmigiano-Reggiano)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
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In low pasta bowls, layer your pasta and sauce. Drizzle extra virgin olive oil over the top. Top with toasted pine nuts and Parmesan shavings.
January 31st, 2010 at 7:37 pm
I’m loving the tapenade, not sure If I’ll try making pasta by hand again. The first time was a massive workout by itself. Maybe once I get a pasta machine, then I’ll get back into it. For now I’ll take the tapenade.
January 31st, 2010 at 7:40 pm
So, you know I’m madly in-love with my Paul, right? I mean, he’s the the shiznit in the house. BUT, he cannot cook to save his life. And I’ve learned my lesson (more than once) not to send him grocery shopping for me. So reading that Rich makes “Sea Bass with Tomato, Olives, and Capers”…I’m a little jealous!
January 31st, 2010 at 8:58 pm
@Jenn- You’re right about it being a workout! I was huffing and puffing by the time I finished. I just saw it as good evidence that I needed it.
@Amy- Oh this is too funny! It never occurred to me that his meal sounded impressive. It was more a question of, “I caught these fish with my bare hands, now how do I make a manly meal out of them?” approach. But, you’re right, on second thought, it does sound refined! He’ll get a kick out of this.
February 1st, 2010 at 4:45 pm
I am a little jealous of your grocery shopping hubby too. Mine would do it, but only if I gave him a list, with pictures, and aisle numbers. Otherwise he’d just come back with milk, bread, and beer, and say he couldn’t find anything else on the list, LOL.
February 1st, 2010 at 9:37 pm
When you are back you are back with a vengence. This is my kind of pasta… LOVE it. LOVE you. LOVE this blog. GREG
February 2nd, 2010 at 5:43 am
@Sippitysup- I do believe this qualifies for my first Valentine this year! Thank you GREG.
February 2nd, 2010 at 1:33 pm
Hi Kim – your blog was once again an example for my class…this time yearbook/journalism. I splashed your blog through the projector on to the big screen in the media center where the class meets to remind them that you make food sound exciting. You use similes and metaphors and good descriptions so we want to continue to read it…and you are writing about food…so my point to the students is they should be able to follow your example and write exceptional captions and lead ins for the the yearbook. Now here comes the big request…our librarian heard me reading parts of your blog and she wants me to ask you to write books for 4th and 5th graders…she thinks you are fabulous so start writing….
February 2nd, 2010 at 4:08 pm
Isn’t homemade pasta the best? I made my first batch a few weeks ago, and have made it twice more since then. Can’t get enough! Love the idea of “torn” pasta instead of cutting it, especially since I don’t have a pasta machine and do everything by hand. Great post! But… I hope your bass is not Chilean Sea Bass. I just found out it’s on Seafood Watch’s “AVOID” list due to severe overfishing. According to the Seafood Watch website, good alternatives are Striped bass, Pacific Halibut and Sablefish (black cod). Happy eating!
February 2nd, 2010 at 9:15 pm
@Amy, my eyes got watery when I read this. Then, I purred like a cat for about thirty minutes. I’m not sure why we do things or don’t do things in our lives. I’ve had a story rolling around in my head for about ten years now. And, coincidentally, it’s set in Beaufort!
I suppose I need to just write it. Okay. I’ll put it on my 2010 to do list. Please tell her thank you. Ah, a kindness from a stranger- I love it! It’s amazing how the tiniest forces of the universe- like kind words- push us gently forward. And thank you, too!! On the projector- imagine that! I was never on the yearbook staff in high school, but I always wanted to be.
February 3rd, 2010 at 9:53 am
Can’t WAIT to try this recipe! I have been wanting to do a new pasta recipe. Being vegetarian, I’ll leave out the anchovies, but WOW!
You SHOULD be a writer Kim! Remember some of us have been telling you that for YEARS now! Go get ‘em girl!
February 4th, 2010 at 6:41 am
@Dawn, Our bass was caught just off the marshes of South Carolina- it’s a very different fish. But, I’m glad you brought the subject up! As much as I used to love it, I won’t order Chilean Sea Bass in a restaurant now.
I understand this is a national grass-roots campaign in the hopes the market craving is lessening. Let’s all just be vigilant in that “they” don’t change the fish’s name third time and plop it on our plates without our knowledge. Shame on the fishing industry and let’s hope all of the attention is stopping this practice. We also need to stop our tuna intake at sushi houses!
@ Kelly, thank you Kelly. You are a true blue friend.
February 4th, 2010 at 11:19 am
I love the tapenade & can’t wait to try it with chili oil
February 4th, 2010 at 12:40 pm
Hand torn pasta sounds so amazing, and the tapenade sauce yummy. Lucky you to have a hubby cooking for you, you totally deserve it.
February 5th, 2010 at 6:10 am
I love that rustic look on that pasta. Life doesn’t have to perfert and so does the shape of the pasta. I love something spicy and I found some green olives marinated with chili oil and garlic. That would be great with this dish.
February 8th, 2010 at 5:33 pm
This fiery tomato tapenade sounds like it would suit any pasta or crusty bread. Delicious!!
And I also enjoyed your bad spy girl article..
February 10th, 2010 at 5:16 pm
i like this post, and i like your site. i know how tough it is to keep up a blog regularly. trust me, i struggle! LOL keep up the good work!